Merry Christmas everyone! This has been Ornament Designs first Christmas and a very busy one at that. After 5 craft shows in the Pittsburgh area, I made enough money to cover the purchase of new supplies. Thanks Pittsburgh for helping Ornament Designs stay afloat!
Earlier this year I posted an album titled Ornaments of Christmases Past on the Facebook page. These are pictures of ornaments I made circa 2007-2008. If you have never been to the Facebook page you may have missed it. If you did, never fear! Click on the album title above to visit that page.
Today I took some pictures of my parents Christmas tree and added two new albums on Facebook titled Ornaments of Christmases Past- prior to 2007 and Ornaments of Christmases Past- Kit Ornaments. Please follow the links and check out some of the ornaments I made as a teenager and the kits my parents assembled when I was too young to help. There are a lot more ornaments on the tree than pictures in the album. I had some problem with the lighting and wasn’t able to take clear pictures of them all. However, when we disassemble the tree on January 2nd I intend on taking pictures of the rest and adding them to the albums. Be sure to “Like” Ornament Designs so you don’t miss the updates!
Here are 2 shots of the full tree, one with a flash and one without. Regrettably, my camera can’t do it proper justice, but I still want to show you anyway. Click on the picture to see it in full size.
I hope you all have a wonderful Christmas and a safe and happy New Year. See you in 2011!
*Purchased from Cartwright’s
**Cotton fabric can be used in place of silk.
Draw vertical lines on the ball dividing it into 8 equal sections.
Measure from the top point of the ball, down a line toward the mold line of the ball (any line will do), one inch and mark it.
Move one line to the right and do the same thing as in step 2 except this time measure two inches.
Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you have each line marked.
Connect the dots. Using your measuring tape as a straight edge, connect each point marked. You should have drawn what looks like a 4 point star when looking down at the top of your ball.
Turn the ball over and repeat steps 1-5 on the bottom of the ball. However, this time you should shift the pattern over one line. So, if you measured one inch on the top of the ball, you should measure two inches on the same line on the bottom of the ball. The points on the bottom star will go in between the points of the top star. The space at the mold like in between the two stars will have a zig zag shape.
Cut along the lines outlining the star at both the top and bottom of the ball. Also cut the lines within the star.
Once the stars are covered with fabric, tuck and glue green cord into the seams of the 8 lines that radiate from the center of the stars.
Next, outline the stars with green sequins. At each point where you connected the dots, you should put one large red sequin.
Next to the green line of sequins, place a red line of sequins. At the one inch connect points, place a green sequin. At the two inch connect points, circle the large red sequin with green sequins.
Then place a solid silver line of sequins next to the red line of sequins. Be sure that the top and bottom patterns of sequins mirror each other.
Mix clear iridescent glitter glue with red glitter to make the glitter paint. Paint the remaining exposed foam.
In the middle of the bottom star, thread a large red sequin, then 4 holly sequins onto a corsage pin and pin to the center of the star. Fan the holly out so each leaf point is on a two inch line of cord and pin into place.
At the top of the ornament, place the hanging ribbon and bow. On a corsage pin, thread a large red sequin, then the red hanging ribbon, then two loops of green cord then two loops of red ribbon and so on, until you have a pretty bow. Pin to the middle of the star at the top of the ball.
Lastly, pin holly on each two inch line of cord just under the bow.
Pin red velvet ribbon in two perpendicular lines around the foam ball, sectioning the ball into 4 equal parts.
Pin 9mm silver ribbon in two perpendicular lines, between the red ribbon, sectioning the ball into 8 equal parts.
Trace all ribbon with 5mm black sequins.
Paint the remaining visible foam with glitter glue. You may need several coats.
Once the glitter is dry, add the hanging ribbon and bow on the top of the ornament. Thread a large silver sequin onto the corsage pin, then the hanging ribbon and then the bow, in that order. I used both 6mm silver ribbon and red velvet in the bow. Alternate two loops of red, then two or silver, and so on.
Next, thread a green sunburst onto a corsage pin, then a pearl bead, then a silver kaleidoscope and pin to the center of the red velvet ribbon.
Repeat step 6 on remaining 3 sides of ball and on the bottom.
I’ve had this book under Related Reading in the side bar for several months now. It’s been on my personal wish list for much longer than that, but due to my living situation it was cost prohibitive to purchase the book until now. And I’m so glad I did!
In Japanese Kimekomi, Barbara Suess and Kathleen Hewitt give easy to follow step by step instructions how to make Japanese kimekomi balls. They include a short history of kimekomi, basic kimekomi instruction, including a list of supplies and specific supply recommendations, as well as 16 designs you can recreate yourself. Suess and Hewitt’s instructions are straightforward and include useful illustrations to aid in the reader’s understanding. The templates in the back of the book are easily photocopied and used as patterns for fabric cutting or drawing a design on a ball. If you are a fan of my kimekomi designs then you will love this book.
Here is a ball I made using one of the patterns in the book.
I love this book for several reasons, one of which is the product recommendations. I’ve been able to improve my craft using several of the products the authors endorse. One of my awesome readers, Sharra from Houston, and I were discussing cutting tools last week and she told me “I checked out the Japanese Kimekomi book I saw on your website and found the hot knife that she uses. It has been WONDERFUL. You should definately check out this knife! I am over the moon with it!”
Another thing I love about this book is that with every design, the authors show you how to play with the patterns to create a new look. With each design given, one or 2 variations are also shown. So 16 designs turn into over 30! I definitely feel like I got my moneys worth.
I highly recommend this book to anyone who is interested in making Japanese kimekomi.
Do you already have this book? What do you think? Let’s discuss it in the comments!
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