It’s actually been many years since I’ve made a glitter ornament but I still get a lot of questions about making them. My glitter designs are some of my most popular on YouTube. In this new tutorial video I will show you everything you need to know to make your own beautiful glitter ornaments. My techniques haven’t changed much over the years. Watch this first and my old time lapse-videos will make much more sense.
In an effort to get a better idea where my followers are buying their ornament supplies and which tools they prefer I ran a survey from May-August 2015. I received 30 responses in total. Not all answered every question in the survey and some added to there responses in the comments. The majority of my followers are from the United States so the answers reflect that.
Here’s what I learned:
Kimekomi is the most popular type of ornament made and sequined ornaments are the 2nd most popular type.
Pearl Pins: Jo-ann was the clear favorite for pearl head pins. Hobbycraft for the UK.
Tucking Tool for Kimekomi:
There were only 10 responses to this question.
6 people use a straight upholstery needle.
2 people use a traditional tucking tool from Japan.
1 person uses an awl or dental tool.
1 person uses a metal fingernail file with a plastic handle.
One added “also use a sculpting tool with a flat side”.
I would like to thank everyone who participated in the survey and if you didn’t have a chance to participate but would still like to add your recommendations and/or preferences please leave a comment below.
This Starburst design is one I’ve used for over 5 years. It’s one of my favorites because it’s always beautiful no matter the size of the ball, color combination or embellishment at the center focal point. Learn everything you need to know to make these fabulous sequined ornaments in my latest video tutorial.
Drawing Lines on your foam egg.
Please be aware that these measurements are for eggs that are about 7cm tall. You will need to adjust your measurements for eggs of a different size.
Your foam egg should have a line that was made during the manufacturing process that runs up each side of the egg from bottom to top. Bottom being the widest part of the egg and top being the narrowest.
Using your measuring tape as a strait edge, trace the factory marked line with your pen on both sides of the egg.
Now take your measuring tape and find the place near the top where there is 8cm between each of the lines you just drew.
Draw a dot at 2cm, 4cm and 6cm. I’ll call these dots the mid-points in the next step. You can repeat this step from the bottom of your egg if you wish
Next, using your measuring tape as a straight edge, draw a line connecting the top, one of your mid-points and bottom of the egg.
Do this for all mid-points marked. When finished your egg should have 8 vertical lines.
Here’s what it looks like from the top.
Here’s what it looks like from the bottom.
Here is the accompanying video. It starts after the lines have already been drawn on the egg.
It’s several years old and so the video quality isn’t that great. But it’s still helpful to watch.
Cut out batting and fabric panels.
a) Cut out 8 panels of quilt batting using the batting pattern provided.
b) Cut out fabric panels using the fabric pattern provided. 4 panels of each color.
Cut along all lines on foam egg about 8mm deep.
Glue on batting and tuck in fabric.
a) Glue a panel of batting on the foam in any of the 8 sections. Trim the batting if needed.
b) Next take a fabric panel and place it over the batting. Tuck the edges of the fabric into the foam. Trim fabric as needed.
c) Repeat step a and step b above on the next section with the other color fabric.
d) Alternate panels of the 2 colors of fabric all the way around the egg.
Glue cord onto seams.
a) Start at the top (small end) off the egg. Using your tucking tool or a large needle, scrape off a small bit of glue from your glue stick and apply it to a vertical seam, where you tucked in the fabric.
b) Next place the cord on top of the glue and pat with your finger to secure. Use your tucking tool or a needle to remove any excess glue.
It is only necessary to use a very small amount of glue.
Do not cut the cord at the bottom of the egg. Continue around the entire egg until you reach the top again.
When finished with a seam, you can either cut the cord and tuck the end into the top of the egg or you can continue on to the next seam without cutting the cord, like I do in the video.
Pin the bow, hanging ribbon, sequin to the top of the egg.
a) Cut 16 cm of ribbon for the hanging ribbon.
Melt the ends with your lighter to prevent fraying.
b) Thread a large sequin onto a pearl headed pin first, then the hanging ribbon.
c) Use the remaining ribbon to make the bow. Make 4 loops.
Adjust the loop size as you like and trim the extra ribbon.
When pinning the ribbon for your bow, use a figure 8 motion and be sure that the shiny side of the ribbon is always pointing outward.
d) Dip the end of the pin in craft glue and pin to the top of the egg.
Over the years I’ve seen lots of ornament storage options. There are many companies selling expensive storage boxes that include easy access drawers and dividers, stackable containers, etc. But ornament storage doesn’t have to be expensive or complicated. All you need is some tissue, packing paper, a cardboard box and some closet space.
Keeping the bows nice is always the biggest challenge when storing ornaments. Even if you use a fancy box with dividers your probably still going to end up with squashed flat bows if you don’t do something to help them keep their shape. I use plain lotion-free sent-free tissues to stuff my bows to prevent them from going flat. I do this for storage as well as when I ship the ornaments I sell. Every Christmas when it’s time to decorate the tree I am always pleased to see that the bows look just as good as the day they were made.
Once I’ve stuffed all the bows I wrap them in paper and then stack them in a cardboard box. You can use proper packing paper if you want. Buy it anywhere that sells moving boxes and shipping supplies. Or, if you are cheap like me, you can use newspaper advertisements. I prefer the glossy ads as opposed to the newsprint because I feel like there is less change the ink with transfer from the paper onto the fabric of the ornament. Some of the ads here in Japan are only printed on one side. I collect these throughout the year and use them for packing paper. I wrap it so the blank side of the ad touching the ornament.
Then I store the box in a climate controlled space. Attics can get so hot and basements can be damp. Climate control is key to keeping that musty smell away. You know those little packs of silica that you find packed with new shoes? Put a few of those in your box to combat the humidity especially if you live in a wet climate.